TT 820 
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Copy 1 






There are many— perhaps too many— Crochet books already on sale, 
so it might seem that another was not required, yet we believe the 







CROCHET BOOK No. 1 

meets "a long felt want." 

Not a few of the books now in the market are made up of cribbings from the foreign 
books and magazines, and are so far above the heads of American Crochet workers as 
to be of little use. 

Not one in ten thousand that are interested in Modern Crochet in this country is 
expert enough or willing to devote the time necessary to complete one of the elaborate 
specimens shown, some of which require months or even years to produce. 

Tn the old world such things are possible, but in America only quick action and visi- 
ble results find favor. 

We have, therefore, sought to produce a book at a nominal price, filled with things 
that are simple and easy to do, yet of attractive and original design, well within the ca- 
pacity of the most inexpert amateur, and feel sure there is a good demand for just such 
a book. 

The stitches used in Crochet are few and simple. 

They may be readily learned from the illustrations and accompanying descriptions 
on next page without much difficulty, by a little patient study, but if you have never tried 
Crochet it is certainly a great advantage to learn from someone who knows how, as 
you can see at a glance just how a thing is done much easier than you can puzzle it out 
step by step. 

This refers to the elementary stitches only, for when you once understand clearly 
what is meant by the terms used in the instructions there is no difficulty in making any 
of the articles described, as they are all made up of combinations of these few simple 
stitches. 

If you must learn from the book, take up the description of the various stitches 
and follow them carefully step by step, studying the illustration closely while actually 
using the hook and thread. 

The instructions mean just what they say, so try to see clearly what they tell you 
to do; then do just that and your troubles will quickly disappear. 

Use a hook as fine as convenient for the size of thread, as this produces firm, 
even work. 

It is of first importance to use a good thread, and while it would be absurd to 
claim that ARTAMO is the only good thread, it is very certain there is none better and 
the trade mark ARTAMO is a guarantee of that fact. 

It is made in all the necessary sizes, twists and colors, as described on the back 
cover of this book. 



THE RUDIMENTARY STITCHES OF CROCHET 




Chain Stitch. The abbreviation "ch" stands for this stitch. 




Single Crochet Stitch. The abbrevation "s. c." stands for this stitch. 




Double Crochet Stitch. The abbreviation 



." stands for this stitch. 




Tilet Crochet, showing how the holes of the first row are made. 




Long Treble Crochet worked in clusters of three. 




Double and Single Crochet Net, which also may be used for 



iding. 

)GU42()341 



Chain Stitch is the stitch with which 
all crochet is started. To make it throw 
the end of the thread over the needle and 
twist together the thread at both sides of 
the needle, holding the twist with the left 
hand and at the same time drawing a loop 
of the thread through the loop on needle. 
Draw tight to fasten, then pull one loop 
after another through the loop on needle. 
Each drawing through is called 1 chain. 

Single Crochet Stitch, sometimes 
called tight stitch and half stitch, is made 
as follows : Having made a chain, turn 
and pick up a loop in the second chain 
stitch from needle, and draw another loop 
of the thread through both loops on 
needle. Each chain stitch may have a sin- 
gle crochet made in it in this way. For 
tin- second row turn, chain 1, and pick up 
a loop in the chain on top of the first sin 
gle crochet of preceding row. The loop 
may be picked up on both threads of this 
chain or only on the back thread. By the 
latter method a rib is formed. 

Double Crochet Stitch, frequently 
called a plain, is made as follows: Hav- 
ing a length of chain, turn, throw the 
thread over the needle, and pick up a 
loop in the chain, giving 3 loops on the 
needle. Draw the thread through 2 loops, 
leaving 2 loops on the needle ; then draw 
the thread through these 2 loops, leaving 
1 loop with which to start the next stitch. 

Filet Crochet is made of holes and 
solid blocks, the former made of 2 chain 
stitches and 1 double crochet, as shown 
in the illustration on this page. More de- 
tailed instructions for doing this work 
will be found on pages 14 and 15, with the 
filet crochet set for a bureau, which is il- 
lustrated there. 

Long Treble Crochet is here shown 
worked in clusters. This stitch is not 
often used and yet there are times, as 
when a wide opening for ribbon is neces- 
sary, that it is very desirable. Long 
treble crochet, when worked in individual 
stitches, is made as follows : Throw the 
thread over the needle 3 times and pick 
up a loop in the preceding row or chain, 
then draw the thread through 2 loops, 
nver and over, until all the loops are 
worked off. In making the clusters 
shown, the loops of the first stitch are 
worked off until 2 loops remain on tin- 
needle; the next 2 stitches are worked in 
the same way, and after the third stitch 
all the loops are worked nff. 

Double and Single Crochet Net is 

sometimes used in crochet instead of the 
filet crochet net made "f plain holes, and 
it also is used for beading. Begin with a 
length of chain, turn, 1 single crochet in 
the eighth chain from needle, * chain 2. 
skip 2 stitches of foundation chain. 1 
double crochet in the next, chain 2. skip 
2, 1 single crochet in the next, and repeat 
from * to end. 

2nd row: Turn and make I double 
crochel in each double crochet. 5 chain be- 
tween. W'urk the third^ow like the first, 
making the double crochet in the double 
crochet of preceding row ; the single 
crochet in the center chain. Repeat the 
second and third rows alternately. 



WITH CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING THEM 



A * in crochet directions is the sign of 
a repetition. When the first * is reached, 
pass it without notice. A second * in- 
structs the crocheter to go back to the 
first * and repeat from that point. 

Slip Stitch is made just like single 
crochet excepting that, instead of draw- 
ing a new loop through both loops on 
needle, the picked-up loop is drawn 
through the second loop. This stitch is 
sometimes called the quarter-stitch. 

Short Double Crochet is made much 
like the ordinary double crochet. Throw 
the thread over the needle and pick up 
a loop in the chain of the preceding row, 
giving 3 loops on the needle. Draw the 
thread through all 3 loops at once. This 
produces a short, close stitch, very desir- 
able for use where a firm effect is neces- 
sary in the finished work. 

A Picot is made by working 5 chain 
stitches and catching to the stitch preced- 
ing the 5 chain stitches. If a tight effect 
is desired the catching down should be 
done with a slip stitch, and for a larger 
picot the catching should be done with 
a single crochet. 



Treble Crochet Stitch is made like 
double crochet stitch, but instead of wind- 
ing the thread once over the needle before 
picking up a loop in the chain beneath, the 
thread is wound twice over the needle, 
then the loop is picked up, giving 4 loops 
on the needle. Draw the thread through 
2 loops, leaving 3 loops on the needle ; 
draw the thread through 2 loops, leaving 
2 loops on the needle ; draw the thread 
through 2 loops, leaving 1 loop on the 
needle, with which to start the next stitch. 

Inverted Treble Crochet Clusters 

are made as follows : Make a length of 
chain, turn, and make 1 treble crochet in 
the fifth chain from needle. * Chain 4, 
wind the thread twice over the needle 
and pick up a loop in the second stitch 
along foundation chain; draw the thread 
through 2 loops, 3 loops remaining on the 
needle. Throw the thread over the needle 
and pick up a loop in the third stitch along 
chain, and draw the thread through 2 
loops, and again through 2 loops, until 
but 1 loop remains. Repeat from * 
throughout the row. 

Puff Stitch. This stitch, sometimes 
called "knob stitch," is used when a heavy 
effect in crochet is desirable. For this 
stitch make the usual length of chain, turn 
and make 5 treble crochet stitches in the 
fifth chain from needle. Slip the loop 
from needle, pass the needle through the 
top of the first treble crochet made, pick 
up the dropped loop and draw the thread 
through, thus forming the puff. Chain 3, 
skip 3 stitches of the foundation chain and 
make a puff in the next, and so continue 
to the end. Each row is fastened off at 
the end and each new row begun where 
the first row was begun, the puffs made 
between those of the preceding row, with 
a half puff at each end of the alternate 
rows to make the edges even. 







Slip Stitch. This stitch is used to slip from one point to another. 




z&g^h£mw8m8®B8& 



Sliort double crochet, the thread drawn through three loops at once. 




A Picot. It is being closed with a single 




Puff Stitch, made of treble crochet and cha 



THE ^RTAKo CROCHET BOOK No. I 




No. C101. Square Motif Hand Bag. 

SQUARE MOTIF HAND BAG No. C101. 

Materials: 

3 Balls Ecru "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 10. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

Forty-eight medallions are needed for this bag, 
and they arc made first, as follows: 

Chain 10, join in a ring and in the ring work 16 
single crochet. 

2nd round: 1 single crochet in first stitch of 
preceding round, picked up on the double thread. 
* Chain 5, 1 treble crochet each in the next 3 sin- 
gle crochet, chain 5, 1 single crochet in the next 
stitch. Repeat from * around the ring, 4 shells in 
all, and fasten off. 



\\ hen all the medallions have been made join 
them as follows : 

Make 1 treble crochet in the center treble crochet 
at one side of one of the medallions, chain 5, 1 
treble crochet in same stitch, chain 7, make 2 treble 
crochet with 5 chain between in the center stitch of 
next side of medallion, and repeat around, ending 
the round with 7 chain stitches caught to the first 
treble crochet of the round. 

2nd round: Slip stitch to the center of the 
space between first 2 trebles of preceding round. 
Chain 8, 1 double crochet in same space, chain 2, 
turn and make 1 treble crochet in the center stitch 
of one of the shells of second medallion, turn and 
make 1 double crochet in first stitch of chain around 
first medallion, chain 2, skip 2 chain, 1 double 
crochet in the next, chain 2, skip 2 chain, 1 double 
crochet in the next, turn and make 1 treble crochet 
in the center of the second shell of second medal- 
lion, turn, 1 double crochet in space between treble 
crochet of first medallion, chain 5, 1 double crochet 
in same space. Chain 2, turn, 1 treble crochet in 
the center of first shell of third medallion, turn, 
1 double crochet in first chain along first medallion, 
chain 2, skip 2 chain, 1 double crochet in the next, 
chain 2, skip 2, 1 double crochet in the next, turn 
and make 1 treble crochet in the center of the 
second shell of third medallion, chain 2, 1 double 
crochet between treble crochet of first medallion. 

Continue the work along the third medallion. 
Turn, chain 5, 1 treble crochet where last treble 
crochet was worked, chain 7, 2 treble crochet with 
5 chain between in the center of next shell of third 
medallion, chain 7, trebles and chain in next shell. 
chain 7, 1 treble in center of next shell (already 
worked into), chain 2, 1 single crochet in 5-chain 
loop below, chain 2, 1 treble crochet in center of 
first shell of second medallion (already worked 
into) chain 7, 2 trebles with 5 chain between in next 
shell, chain 7, 2 trebles with 5 chain in next shell, 
chain 7, treble in center of next shell, chain 2, 
catch to double crochet of first medallion, turn, 
chain 3. catch in center of chain loop of first medal 
lion, chain 2, 1 double crochet in space before 
catching to first medallion, work around as in- 
structed for the first medallion, catching to the 
fourth medallion on the first 2 corners, and to the 
fifth medallion also on the second corner. Catch 
to the second corner of the fifth medallion when 
crossing from third to the second medallion, and 
there omit the chain stitches between the double 
crochet. 

Work row after row in this way. always catch- 
ing in extra medallions, until there are 4 medal- 
lions in the final row. Lay this piece of work aside 
and make another piece like it. for the other side of 
the point of the bag. Then work the joining rows 
round and round, always, catching in new medal- 
lions, until all the medallions have been joined. 
Finish the top of the bag with a picot round, as 
follows : 

Make 1 single crochet in the space at one of the 
points. Chain 5, catch in the first chain made for 
a picot, repeat from beginning until 4 single crochet 
and 3 picots.have been made in the same space, 
work 1 single crochet and 1 picot in each space to 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH ^RTflNo COTTONS 



the next point, and repeat from beginning around 
the top of the hag. Join and fasten off. Work 
the unfinished side edges of the medallions at the 
bottom of the bag, then overhand shut. 

The drop ornaments at the bottom of the bag 
are made as follows : Chain 2 and work 5 single 
crochet in the first chain made. Work round and 
round, increasing 5 times in each round, and hav- 
ing the wrong side of the work out. until there are 
20 stitches in the round. Work 2 rounds without 
increasing, then narrow 5 times in each round, stuf- 
fing the drop with cotton before working the final 
round. Chain 10, catch in bottom point of bag, 
chain 10, catch to drop and fasten off. Make 3 
drops for each side in the same way, spacing them 
evenly apart. 

Take 10 celluloid rings, one-half an inch in 
diameter, cover them with single crochet and sew 
them to the bag on a line with the center of the 
second row of medallions from the top, spacing 
them evenly apart. Then crochet the cords as fol- 
lows : Chain 7 and join in a ring, and in the ring 
work 7 single crochet. On these 7 single crochet 
work round and round, picking up on the back 
thread, until the cord is 32 inches long. Run it 
through the ring, and join the ends, knotting the 
cord to conceal the joining. Make a second cord 
exactly like the first, and line the bag with tan silk. 



ROUND GATE TOP BAG No. C102. 

Materials: 

3 Balls Ecru "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 40. 

Blue "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle No. 5. 

1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

Begin at the center of the bottom of the bag with 
6 chain stitches, joined in a ring. In the ring work 
12 single crochet. Join the round. 

2nd round : Chain 2, 1 double crochet in first 
stitch of preceding round, chain 1, 2 double crochet 
in same stitch. * 1 double crochet each in the next 
2 stitches, in the next stitch work 2 double crochet, 

1 chain, 2 double crochet, and repeat from * to the 
end. joining the round. Pick up all the stitches on 
the double thread. Work 6 rounds more in this 
manner, always working 2 double crochet, 1 chain, 

2 double crochet in each corner space, and between 
the corners making 1 double crochet in each stitch. 
Each round is joined and each new round is be- 
gun with 3 chain stitches, to count as the first 
double crochet. When the square is finished each 
side should have 30 double crochet. 

1st filet crochet round: Chain 5, 1 double 
crochet in the second double crochet, * chain 2, 
skip 1 stitch of preceding round, 1 double crochet 
in the next. Continue in this way, making 1 double 
crochet in every second stitch of preceding round, 
2 chain stitches between. In each corner work 1 
double crochet and 1 chain stitch alternately until 
A double crochet have been made. There will be 
15 holes along each side of the square, 3 holes in 
each corner. Join the round. In the next round 
the floral pattern is begun. 




No. C102. Round Gate Top Bag. 

2nd round : In the center hole of each corner 
make 3 double crochet, with 1 chain after the first 
and second. Make the rest of the round in holes, 
working 2 chain stitches and 1 double crochet for 
each hole, and beginning the pattern after the 
eleventh hole after each corner by working 2 
double crochet in the hole of the preceding row 
instead of 2 chain stitches. This is the lowest 
point of the pattern, and to work the remainder 
the detail pattern herewith may be followed, work- 
ing it on all four sides of the square. Each solid 
block of the pattern is made of 3 double crochet. 
not counting the double crochet with which the 
preceding hole was closed. 

Excepting for the pattern, the rounds are made 
of holes, with 3 double crochet worked in the cen- 
ter stitch of each corner, 1 chain stitch separating 



THE ^gTflR^ CROCHET BOOK No. t 




Working Pattern for Filet 

Crochet Motif Used in Bag 

No. C102. 



them. This is done until 
the ninth round with the 
pattern has been worked, 
after which the corners 
are not increased. After 
the top round of the pat- 
tern has been worked, 
make 4 rounds all holes, 
then crochet or overhand 
to the gate top. 

The blue is put in with 
darning stitches, just as 
a stocking would be 
darned, going in one 
mesh and out the next. 
First do the center row 
of darning at each cor- 
ner. Begin in the elev- 
enth round from the top 
of the bag, and darn in 
and out down to the fifth 
round after the last in- 
creasing. In these holes 
darn back and forth un- 
til 2 threads have been 
put in both ways. 
The remainder of the darning is put in across 
the meshes and not up and down. Darn twice each 
way across the mesh at each side of the top mesh 
of the line of darning, then one mesh beyond it on 
the lower rows, to the row below the end of the 
long line of darning. On each row darn the mesh 
outside the darned mesh of the preceding row, thus 
forming a diagonal line beginning at the end of the 
long line of darning and continuing for 9 rows be- 
low it. 

Begin the handle with 14 chain stitches, turn, 1 
double crochet in the eighth chain from needle, 
chain 2, skip 2, 1 double crochet in the next, chain 
2, skip 2, 1 double crochet in the next — 3 holes in 
the row. 

2nd round: Turn, chain 5, 1 double crochet in 
the second double crochet, 2 holes more along the 
row. Repeat the second row until the strip is 44 
inches long, run through the holes of the top, and 
join the strip. Fill the holes down each side edge 
with single crochet and fasten off. Then with the 
blue cotton darn the center mesh of each row, put- 
ting in the darning stitches across the rows and not 
up and down. 

NOVELTY BAG, No. C136. 

Materials: 

2 Balls White "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 40. 
2 Skeins Coronation Braid. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

Make 5 rows of the braid with 42 loops in each ; 
crochet in each of the loops 4 trebles at both sides. 
Winn the strips of braid have been edged with 
trebles as described, they should In' joined as fol- 
lows: Begin in a space between shells, fastening 
the thread there. Chain 7 and catch in the fifth 
chain from needle, chain 7. catch in the fifth chain 
from needle, chain 2 and make a single crochet in 



space between trebles of the second loops of the 
coronation braid, thus joining them. Continue 
working until you have joined the five rows of 
braid. Single crochet 3 rows all the way around 
the bottom of the bag, then continue working 
the same stitch and decreasing every 7th stitch. 
To decrease : Make the sixth stitch and take 
up the seventh and then draw the thread 
through all these stitches on your needle at 
once. Then crochet one row without decreasing, 
and the next row decrease every sixth stitch ; 
crochet another row, and then decrease every fifth 
stitch ; another row, decrease every fourth ; another 
row, decrease every third ; another row, decrease 
every second stitch, thus closing until you have 
formed a good cup-shaped piece for the bottom of 
the bag. Everybody does not crochet alike, there- 
fore it is wise to work thoughtfully when you come 
down close to the ending of the bottom of the bag. 
Now to finish the top, put your stitch on the needle, 
and crochet a treble with the thread over the needle 
three times. Make the second treble in the next 
stitch, and then make a chain of 3 and crochet 2 
more trebles as directed, and thus continue all the 




No C136. Novelty Bag of Coronation Braid and Crochet. 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH 



COTTON 



way around. This is the place where you put in 
the cord. Crochet another row of holes like this 
one, putting the trebles in the holes and not over 
the trebles of the preceding row. Another cord is run 
through this place. Between the 2 trebles ( not the 
hole), crochet 6 trebles, 1 single crochet between 
the next 2 trebles, and thus continue all the way 
around row. Make another row of the trebles, hav- 
ing 3 trebles between in the center of the six of the 
preceding row, and 1 over the single crochet of pre- 
ceding row. Top row : Single crochet in 1st hole of 
the scallop, chain 7, 1 treble in the next hole ; chain 
5. slip stitch back to the 4th chain ; chain 1, 1 treble 
in the same hole. Thus continue, making 2 trebles 
with a picot between the 2 trebles, and leaving one 
hole at either side of the scallop. Take 8 crochet 
buttons and have 20 stitches in the longest chain for 
the bottom of the bag, the next 18, the next 16 
chain, making a double chain. 

To make the cord : Make a chain of 4, join in a 
ring and crochet around and take up the outside 
thread of the stitch until you have made the cord the 
proper length. 

Line the bag with soft silk, either white or as in 
the picture with a contrasting color. 



THREE-CORNERED HAND BAG No. C110. 

Materials: 

5 Balls Ecru "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 30. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

The three square motifs for the bottom of the 
bag are made first. Begin with the tiny square at 
the center of the first, with 20 chain stitches. 

1st row: Turn, 1 double crochet in the eighth 
chain from needle, * chain 2, skip 2, 1 double 
crochet in the next. Repeat from * to the end, 
when there will be 5 holes in the row. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 5, 1 double crochet in 
second double crochet, 2 double crochet in each 
hole and 1 double crochet in each double crochet 
until 1 hole remains, 1 hole at end. 

3rd row: Turn, chain 5, 1 double crochet in 
second double crochet, 3 more double crochet along 
the row, 1 hole with 4 double crochet after it, 1 hole 
to end. Repeat the second row, then the first row. 
This completes the center, and the remainder of the 
motif is worked around it. 

1st round: Make 1 double crochet in each 
double crochet all around and 2 double crochet in 
each hole excepting the corners, in which work 3 
double crochet, 3 chain, 3 double crochet. Join the 
round and make 2 rounds more like it, always in- 
creasing at the corners. 

4th round : Work like preceding rounds, but 
at each side of the 4 center double crochet of each 
side of the square make 1 hole. In the next 3 
rounds make 1 hole at the center of each side of 
the square, in the next round make a hole at the 
center of each side and 2 holes at each side of each 
corner, in the next round make a hole at the center 
of each side, and at each side of this hole have 7 




No. C110. Three-cornered Hand Bag. 

double crochet, then 2 holes. The tenth round has 
5 holes at the center of each side, and the eleventh 
round is all holes. This is the final round of the 
square. Fasten off and make 2 squares exactly like 
the first, then join them, as follows: 

Lav one square over one of the others, and 
through the hole at one of the corners make 1 sin- 
gle crochet, working through both squares. Chain 
7 and catch in the single crochet just made, for a 
picot, chain 2, 1 single crochet in the next hole 
again through the double thickness, make a picot of 
7 chain stitches, and so continue until the two 
squares have been joined along that side. Lay the 
third square against the other squares and join it 
to each along one side, so that the bottom point of 



THE ^RTflMo CROCHET BOOK No, I 



the bag is formed. Then work around the un- 
joined edges of the squares for the top of the bag, 
as follows: 

Make 1 round all holes, making 1 hole directly 
over the end of each joining. 

2nd round: Work all holes excepting over the 
end of each joining and also at the 3 corners of the 
squares, where 4 double crochet should be worked. 
Repeat the round. 

4th round: All holes excepting at each side of 
each solid block of preceding round. Over these 
holes work a solid block, with a hole over the solid 
block of preceding round. Repeat the fourth round 
until there are 28 rounds in all. 

29th round : Make 1 double crochet in each 
double crochet and 2 double crochet in each hole 
all around. 

30th round : Make 4 double crochet on a line 
with the holes down the center of each stripe, at 
each side of them make a hole, and make a hole at 
each side of the 4 double crochet midway between 
the stripes. Otherwise double crochet is worked 
throughout the round. Repeat the thirtieth round. 

32nd round: Make a hole over the solid block- 
between the holes of the preceding round, and make 

3 holes midway between each 2 of these individual 
holes. Otherwise work the round all double 
crochet. 

33rd round: Make 1 hole over each individual 
bole of preceding round and also over the center 
Ik ile <if each group of 3 holes, but otherwise work 
in double crochet. Repeat the thirty-third round. 

35th round : Begin at the hole over one of the 
stripes, and over it make 4 double crochet, 1 hole, 
7 double crochet, 3 holes, 7 double crochet, 1 hole 

4 double crochet, 1 hole, 7 double crochet, 3 holes, 
7 double crochet, 1 hole, and repeat from the be- 
ginning to the end of the round. 

36th round: Over the center of each stripe 
make 4 double crochet and midway between make 
4 double crochet. Otherwise work in holes. 

37th round : Begin over one of the groups of 
double crochet, making 1 single crochet each in the 
2 center stitches of the group. Chain 3, 1 double 
crochet in double crochet after hole, * chain 7 and 
catch for a picot, chain 2, double crochet in next 
double crochet, repeat 6 times from *, chain 3, and 
repeat from beginning to the end of the round. 
Fasten off. 

The draw strings are run through celluloid rings, 
one-half an inch in diameter and covered with sin- 
gle crochet. These rings are fastened to the in- 
tde nf the bag at regular intervals along the second 
row of the heading. The draw strings are made 
as follows: Chain 10, turn, 1 double crochet in 
the fourth chain from needle, chain 2, 1 double 
crochet each in the last 3 stitches of chain. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 4. 1 double crochet in 
third double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet in 
next double crochet, 2 double crochet in chain. 
Repeat the second row until the string is 2( r > inches 
long, then work 3 single crochet in the end of each 
row down each side edge. Run the draw string 
through the ring and join the ends as follows: 1 



single crochet made through the first space of both 
ends, * chain 10, catch in the seventh chain from 
the needle for a picot, chain 10 and picot, continue 
in this way until 5 picots have been made, make 1 
single crochet in the next hole of the draw string, 
working through both ends to join them, and re- 
peat from * to the other edge. Fasten off and 
make the second draw string in the same way. 

The tassels of the bag are made of picot loops, 
like those used to join the draw strings. Catch in 
the bag with a single crochet ; make a string of 
chains and picots until 10 picots have been made; 
make a single crochet where the last one was made, 
and continue to make the loops until 4 loops have 
been made for each side tassel, and 6 loops for the 
lower point of the bag. 

OVAL GATE TOP BAG No. C114. 

Materials: 

1 Ball Ecru "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 50. 

2 Balls Ecru "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 30. 

1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

Begin with the finer cotton, working the solid 
part of the bag. Make a chain 5 inches long, and 
on the chain work as follows : 

1st row: Thread over, pick up a loop in first 
stitch, thread over, pick up a loop in next stitch. 
Draw the thread through all the loops on needle, 
and chain 1. Repeat this cluster along the chain, 
to the other end. 

2nd row: Thread over needle and pick up a 
loop in the first stitch of preceding row, draw 
through all, and chain 1. This is an increased 
cluster. Thread over needle and again pick up a 
loop in first stitch of preceding row, thread over 
and pick up a loop in the first space between clus- 
ters. Draw through all and chain 1. * Thread 
over and pick up a loop in the space between clus- 
ters where last loop was picked up, thread over, 
pick up a loop in next space, thread through all the 
loops on needle, chain 1. Repeat from * across the 
row, picking up the final loop for the final cluster 
in the very end of the preceding row. 

Repeat the second row until the finished piece is 
2^4 inches deep, always making an increased clus- 
ter at the beginning of each row. Fasten off and 
make another piece exactly like this, for the back 
of the bag. 

The strip which joins these two pieces, around 
the bottom of the bag, is worked as follows: Chain 
42, turn, skip 3 chain stitches and make 1 double 
crochet each in the next 3 chain, * chain 2, skip 2, 
1 double crochet in the next, repeat from * until 
there are 4 holes in the row with 4 double crochet 
after the last, 4 holes, 4 double crochet at the end 
of the chain. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 5, 1 double crochet in 
fourth double crochet of preceding row, 2 double 
crochet in the hole. 1 double crochet in next double 
crochet, 3 holes along the row, 4 double crochet 
including the double crochet with which last hole 
was closed, 1 hole, 4 double crochet, 3 holes, 4 
double crochet, 1 hole. 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH *»RTfl'Kc> COTTON 




No. C114. Oval Gate Top Bag. 



3rd row: 2 holes, 4 double crochet, 1 hole, 4 
double crochet, 3 holes, 4 double crochet, 1 hole, 
4 double crochet, 2 holes. 

4th row: 3 holes, 4 double crochet, 5 holes, 4 
double crochet, 3 holes. Repeat third, second and 
first rows, then repeat from the beginning of the 
second row until a strip long enough to extend 
down the sides and around the starting chain of 
the finished pieces has been made, ending the strip 
with a repetition of the first row, so that both sides 
are alike. Overhand one edge of the strip to the 
sides and bottom of one of the finished pieces and 
the other edge to the other piece, allowing enough 
fulness at the corners to keep them from capping. 
This forms the bottom of the bag. 

For the top of the bag continue in the filet crochet 
pattern used on the joining strip, repeating the dia- 
mond pattern over and over, working round and 
round the bag. Each round is joined and the new 
one begun with S chain stitches for the first hole, 
or 3 chain stitches for the first double crochet, ac- 
cording to the pattern. Make 22 rounds in all in 
this way for the top of the bag, then crochet or sew 
to the gate tor;. 



The front of the bag is embroidered with cross 
stitch initials. "Artamo" four-ply, in light blue, 
pink and green was used to work them. 

For the handle of the bag use the finer cotton. 
Chain 6, turn, 2 single crochet in the first chain 
made. Turn, chain 5, 2 single crochet in the ring. 
* Turn, chain 5, 2 single crochet in the new ring, 
and repeat from * until the strip is 40 inches long. 
Run through the rings of the gate top, and join 
end to beginning, then work down each side edge 
as follows: 3 double crochet in first ring, chain 1, 
3 double crochet in next ring, and so continue to 
end. 



The Handsomest Embroidery and Crochet 
are Produced by Using 

"ARTAMO" COTTONS 

Unequalled in Lustre and Color Tones 



A complets list of these Cottons 
will be found on tlie back corer. 



THE ^gTflKp CROCHET BOOK No. 




No. C135. Crocheted Work Bag. 

CROCHETED WORK BAG No. C135. 
Materials: 

1 Large Ball White "ARTAMO" Crochet 

Perle No. 5. 
1 Large Ball Pink "ARTAMO" Crochet 

Perle No. 5. 
1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

Start with pink and ch. 6. 

1st row: 24 T. around chain. Continue for 8 
rows, widening sufficiently to allow work to lie 
flat. 

9th row: (Using white cotton) 1 s.c, 3 ch., 
1 s.c, 3 ch. Continue to end of row. 

10th row: 1 s.c. in centre of 3 ch. of previous 
row, 3 ch., 1 s.c. 3 ch. Continue for 6 more rows 

17th row: (Using pink cotton) 1 T. in cen- 
tre of every 3 ch. Continue to end of row. 

18th row: 1 T. in every space. Continue this 
for two more rows. 

21st row: 1 d.c. 2 ch., 1 d.c, skipping 2 T. of 
previous row. 2 ch., 1 d.c, and continue to end 
of row. 

22nd row: i Using white cotton) 2 T. in every 
space to end of row. 

23d row: (Using pink cotton 2 T. in every 
space to end of row. Repeat last 2 rows. 

26th row: 1 s.c. between T., ch. 3, 1 s.c. in 
space. Continue to end of row. 

Cord — Take 2 strands each of Pink and White 
Cotton, twist, and finish ends with tassel. 



CROCHETED TABLE MATS, No. C115. 

Materials: 

3 Balls White "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle No. 3. 

6 Balls (75 yds.) White "ARTAMO" Crochet 

Perle No. 5. 

Steel Crochet Hook No. 1. 

The centers of the mats are made with the coarse 
cotton and the borders with the tine, and the centers 
are worked first. For the large mat, begin with a 
chain of 91 chain stitches, and on the chain work 
50 rows of 90 single crochet each, picking up the 
stitches on the back thread, to form a rib. Fasten 
off the coarse cotton. The border is worked in 
rounds on the center. 

1st round: Begin at one of the corners, using the 
finer cotton. Make 1 double crochet in the corner, 
chain 2, again 1 double crochet in the corner, chain 
2, again 1 double crochet in the corner ; work 3 
double crochet in each corner in this way, across 
each end work 26 holes (making 1 double crochet in 
each rib) and down each side edge make 45 holes, 
working 1 double stitch in every second stitch. Be- 
tween the double crochet 2 chain stitches always 
are made. Join at the end of the round. 

Beginning with the second round the design is 
put in and for this the photograph may be followed. 
For the motif at each end omit the two solid blocks 
at each end of the design. Otherwise sides and ends 
are worked alike in the next 7 rounds. The corners 
are worked as follows : 

2nd round: Make 1 double crochet in the first 
double crochet of the corner, 2 double crochet in 
the hole, 3 double crochet in the center double 
crochet of corner, 2 double crochet in next hole, 1 
double crochet in next double crochet. All the 
corners are worked alike. 

3rd round : 1 double crochet each in the first 4 
double crochet of corner, chain 2, 3 double crochet 
in next double crochet of preceding round, chain 2, 
1 double crochet each in the next 4 double crochet. 
All the corners are worked alike, and no mention 
will be made of this hereafter. 

4th round : 1 double crochet in each stitch to 
first hole, 2 double crochet in hole, 1 double crochet 
in next double crochet, 3 double crochet in center, 
and make the second half the reverse of the first. 

5th round: 1 double crochet each in the first 4 
stitches, chain 2, skip 2 stitches, 1 double crochet 
in next stitch, 2 double crochet in hole, 1 double 
crochet in next double crochet, 3 double crochet in 
center stitch of corner. Reverse for second half. 

6th round : 7 double crochet, hole, 4 double 
crochet, hole, 3 double crochet in center stitch, re- 
verse for second half of corner. 

7th round : 4 double crochet, hole, 4 double 
crochet, hole, 4 double crochet, hole, 3 double 
crochet in center stitch of corner, reverse for second 
half. 

8th round: 7 double crochet, holes to center, 1 
double crochet in center stitch with 2 chain stitches 
at each side of it, reverse for second half. Make 1 

(Concluded on Page /_') 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH ^RTAH^ COTTON 



15 



make 1 double crochet in the first double crochet 
of preceding row, and if more than 1 hole is to be 
added, make 3 additional chain stitches for each 
additional hole. If a hole is to be added at the end 
of the row, chain 2 after the last double crochet and 
make 1 long treble crochet in the same stitch where 
the last double crochet has been made. If more 
holes are to be added, after the long treble crochet 
chain 2 and make a long treble crochet in the center 
of the post of the preceding long treble crochet, that 
is, half way down its length. Any desired amount 
of holes may be added in this way. A long treble 
crochet is made like a treble crochet, excepting that 
the thread is wound over the needle 3 times before 
picking up the loop, in- 
stead of twice. If one 
prefers not to use long 
treble crochet, she may 
fasten in an extra chain 
for the additional holes, 
and work on that. 

The bureau set con- 
sists of a large oval 
doily to be used under 
the brush and comb tray, 
two smaller doilies for 
each end of the bureau, 
a crocheted cover for a 
long pincushion and two 
candleshades.' The doi- 
lies and candleshades 
could also be used for 
the luncheon table, mak- 
ing a charming set. 



Oval doily No. C105. 

may be worked from the 
piece illustrated, which 
the crocheter will find no 
difficulty in following. 
Like the other pieces of 
the set, it is made of No. 
60 white "ARTAMO" 
cordonnet, with a Xo. S 
steel crochet hook, work- 
ing as nearly as possible 
"it a scale of 8 meshes to 
the inch each way. Be- 
gin the doily at the cen- 
ter of one of the long 
sides, with a chain of 101 
stitcher, on which a row 
of 32 holes should be 




No. C106. Candleshade of Filet Crochet. 



made. For the second row make 1 hole at each 
end and between make 1 double crochet in each 
double crochet, and 2 double crochet in each hole. 
These are the first 2 rows at the center of one of 
the long sides, and for the remainder of the work 
the illustration may be copied, adding and omitting 
holes at the ends, as instructed at the top of page. 
Finish the edges around the doily by making 3 sin- 
gle crochet in each hole, excepting the center hole 
at each point, in which 9 single crochet should be 
made, to bring out the corner. 



Doily No. C104, if worked on a scale of 8 meshes 
to the inch, as mentioned, is 12 inches each way, and 
is exactly the thing for the plate doily of a luncheon 
set. The work is begun at the center of one of the 
sides with a chain of 101 stitches, on which a row 
of 32 holes should be worked, and the first 4 rows 
are exactly like the first 4 rows of the large doily. 
For the remainder of the work the illustration may 
be followed, increasing and decreasing to give the 
pointed edge, as instructed at the top of page. After 
the doily is worked the edge is finished like that of 
the larger doily, with 3 single crochet in each hole, 
excepting the center hole at each point, in which 
9 single crochet should be made. 

Candleshade No. C 106 
is of the same size and 
shape, worked with the 
same motifs as the small- 
er doily of the set, and 
in working it the photo- 
graph of the latter may 
be followed. But at the 
center a circle, 16 
meshes in diameter, 
should be omitted, and 
to make this hole the 
correct size for the top 
of the candleshade, the 
crochet should be done, 
as nearly as possible, on 
a scale of 8 meshes to 
the inch. All the pieces 
of the set illustrated 
were made on this scale, 
but in doilies and pin- 
cushion top it need not 
be followed so closely. 

After the piece for the 
candleshade has been 
made, fill the holes of 
the outer edge with sin- 
gle crochet, working 9 
single crochet in each 
corner hole and 3 single 
crochet in each hole 
along the sides. The 
holes around the edge of 
the top opening should 
also be filled with single 
crochet, putting 3 single 
crochet in each to avoid 
stretching the opening out of shape. 

1 he tassels for the candleshade are made of the 
same cotton used for the crochet. They should be 
about 6 inches long when finished and each tassel 
should be made of 12 double threads. A tassel is 
tied in each point around the candleshade. 

For the bureau set, two candleshades should be 
made, as mentioned above, but a luncheon set re- 
quires four candleshades. 

Pincushion Top No. Clll is intended for use 
on a satin form 10 inches long, and for this size the 



THE SRTflMo CROCHET BOOK No. 



work should be done on a scale of 8 meshes to the 
inch. It is begun along the square scalloped edge 
at the front of the cushion, and is worked as 
follows : 

Chain 53, and on the chain work 1 row of 16 
holes. 

2nd row: 1 hole, 2 d.c. in each hole and 1 d.c. in 
each d.c. until 1 hole remains, 1 hole at end. 

3rd row: 1 hole. 4 d.c, 12 holes, 4 d.c, 1 hole. 

4th row: Like 3rd. Fasten off and lay this piece 
aside. 

Begin the second square scallop with 29 chain 
stitches on which 8 holes should be worked. 



ch. 24 and catch to the beginning of 4th row of piece 
which was last made. 

.Make a piece like the 2nd piece, after it ch. 24, 
catch to the piece last made. .Make a piece like the 
first piece, after it ch. 24 and catch to the piece last 
made. This gives the full width for the cushion top. 

Begin at the outer edge of the first piece made. 
Work 1 hole, 4 d.c, holes on holes and 4 d.c. on 4 
d.c, 1 hole, 8 holes on ch., and continue across in this 
manner, to the outer edge of the last piece, making 
link- on holes and double crochet on double crochet, 
and working 8 holes along each chain between the 
various sections. Then make 8 rows all holes ex- 
cepting for the 4 double crochet 1 hole in from each 




No. C105. Oval Doily of 

2nd row: 1 hole, 19 d.c, 1 hole. 

3rd row: 1 hole. 4 d.c. 4 holes. 4 d.c, 1 hole. 

4th row: Like .ink A t'ler the 4th row is finished 
ch. 24 and catch to the beginning f t h e 4th row of 
first piece. Fasten off. 

For the center scallop chain SO and make 25 
holes along the chain. 

2nd row: 1 hole at each end, and between make 
1 d.c. in each d.c, 2 d.c in each hole. 

3rd row: 1 hole, 4 d.c, 21 holes, 4 d.c, 1 hole. 

4th row: Like .ink After the 4th row is finished 



a Bureau or Luncheon Set. 



end. The illustration of the cushion top may be 
followed in working the remainder. The side 
figures are begun in the 10th long row, and the 
second half of the cushion cover is exactly like 
the first excepting for the center figure which is 
complete as shown in the illustration, and is exactly 
like that on the long sides of the oval doily. When 
finished the holes around the cushion top are filled 
with single crochet. 

The cushion top is pinned over the satin form 
or else fastened to it with a few tacking stitches at 
the corners, so that it may be removed easily for 
washing. The ends of the satin form have rosette 
bows of narrow ribbon beneath the crochet. 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH 



COTTON 




No. cm. 



Pincushion Top of Filet Crochet, Matching the Other 
Pieces of the Set 




Doily for the Ends of a Bureau or for the Plate 
Doily of a Luncheon Set. 



18 



THE ^|[TAR^> CROCHET BOOK No. I 



BABY'S CROCHETED HOOD No. C108. 

Materials: 

2 Balls of White "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle 

No. 5. 

"ARTAMO" Four-Ply for Cross Stitch. 

1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

Begin at the center of the crown. Chain 4 and 
join in a ring. In the ring make 10 stars of star- 
stitch, as follows : 

Chain 3, pick up a loop each in the second and 
third chain from needle and another loop in the 
ring. Draw the thread through all and chain 1. 
* Pick up a loop in the little hole beneath the chain 
just made (called the eye of the star), a loop in the 
twist behind the last loop of preceding star, and a 
loop in the ring. Again there will be 4 loops on the 
needle. Draw through all and chain 1. Repeat 
from * until 10 stars in all have been made, and 
when working the chain after the final star join to 
the top of the chain with which the first star was 
started. 

2nd round: Begin as the first round was be- 
gun, picking up the fourth loop for the first star 
on the back thread of first stitch along the top of 
preceding round. This 4-loop star is an increased 
star ; stars that are not increased stars have 5 loops 
and are made as follows : * Pick up the first 2 
loops on the star last made, as instructed for the 
preceding round. Pick up the next loop in the 
same stitch where final loop of preceding star 
was picked up, and the final loop in the eye of star 
below in preceding round. Draw through all and 




No. C108. Baby's Crocheted Hood. 



chain 1. Again make a 4-loop star, and repeat from 
* throughout the round, joining at the end. There 
will be 20 stars in the round. 

3rd round: Work first 2 stars like those of 
second round. For the third star pick up the first 
2 loops as usual, pick up the next loop in the back 
of the next stitch along the top of preceding round 
(the first stitch of the second star of that round), 
then a loop in the eye of same star. Draw through 
and chain 1. Repeat from the beginning of the 
round to the end, there joining as usual. Continue 
in this way, always making 1 extra 5-loop star be- 
tween the increasings, until 9 rounds have been 
made, when the work should be 5 inches in 
diameter. For a larger sized hood the increas- 
ings may be continued as necessary for the size 
desired. Then make 4 rounds more, but without 
increasing. 

The remainder of the hood is done in single 
crochet, worked back and forth and picked up on 
the double thread. Work around the crown, 
working 1 single crochet in each stitch of the pre- 
ceding round, to within 2 inches of the end, or in 
another size until the single crochet row is long 
enough to go over the front of the head, from neck 
to neck. Turn and on this row work back and 
forth in single crochet, picking up the stitches on 
the double thread, until the work is A l / 2 inches 
deep ; then work 7 rounds of single crochet on 
both front and neck edges, on the first round nar- 
rowing off every fifth stitch across the back of the 
neck. These rounds must be worked from the 
same side as the star stitch, and must be increased 
at the lower corners of the front, and on them the 
cross stitch border should be worked. 

Work the cross stitch border on the same side with 
the right side of the star stitches. When the cap 
is worn the wrong side of the star stitch crown is 
turned out. 



CROCHETED BOUDOIR CAP No. C100. 

Materials: 

3 Balls Ecru "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 15. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

The band of the cap is made first. Chain 12 
and join in a ring. Chain 3, 15 double crochet in 
the ring. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 3, 1 double crochet each 
in the first 3 double crochet, picked up on the double 
thread. * Chain 4, 1 double crochet each in the 
next 3 double crochet, and repeat from * across the 
row, when there will be 5 groups in all, with 4 
chain loops between them. Turn, 1 single crochet 
in the center double crochet of first group, picked 
up on the double thread ; 7 single crochet in chain 
loop. Work in this way Over each loop and each 
group excepting the final one. After 7 single 
crochet have been worked in the final loop chain 8 
and catch in the end of the row. Turn, chain 3, 
15 double crochet in this new ring, and repeat from 
the beginning of the second row until the second 
shell is completed. The third shell is worked in 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH '£JBTflRg> COTTON 



19 



the same way, but at the end of the second row it 
is caught to the third scallop of first shell. The 
fourth shell is caught to the second shell, and each 
shell is caught to the second preceding shell in the 
same manner. Continue in this way until there 
are 17 shells along each edge, and the length is 
sufficient for the band, joining the last 2 shells to 
the first 2 shells. If the work has been done too 
tight or an extra large band is required, more shells 
may be added, as needed. 

Begin the chain loops which form the crown of 
the cap in the first single crochet of the second 
scallop of the last shell worked on the inner edge 
of the band. Chain 9, 1 single crochet in center of 
first scallop of same shell, and work chain loops in 
this manner, catching at the center of each scallop 
along the inner edge of the band until the first 
scallop of the tenth shell has been worked into 
Skip the first single crochet of the next scallop and 
catch in the next, turn, chain 9, 1 single crochet in 
first loop, * chain 9, 1 single crochet in next, and 
repeat from * across the row. At the end chain 5, 
and catch to the band in the second stitch from the 
single crochet with which the row was started. 
Work back and forth in chain loops in this manner, 
at the end of each row catching to the second sin- 
gle crochet along the band, until the ends of the 
rows have been caught to 4 shells of the band. 
Chain 5, catch in first loop, chain 5, catch in center 
of first scallop of unworked part of band, and criss- 
cross from loops to band, joining them, until the 
eighth scallop of the band has been worked into. 
Count off the loops to be caught to the 8 scallops 
at the other end of the row, and catch the loops 
between to the center scallops of the band, catching 
in each single crochet or as necessary to join all 
the loops. If the number of shells in the band has 
been changed, it will be necessary to divide the ad- 
ditional scallops proportionately between the front 
and back of the cap. 

The rosettes for the sides of the cap are made 
as follows: Chain 8, join in a ring and make 15 
single crochet in the ring. 

2nd round: Chain 3, 1 single crochet in third 
stitch along ring, and repeat until there are 5 chain 
loops around the ring. 

3rd round: 1 single crochet, 5 double crochet 
and 1 single crochet in each loop around ring. 

4th round : 1 single crochet in each single 
crochet of second round, working over the third 
round, 5 chain stitches between the single crochet, 
carried behind the shells of the third round. 

5th round: Like third, but with 7 double 
crochet in each shell. Sixth round like fourth, but 
with 7 chain in each loop. Continue in this way. 
in each round making 1 extra double crochet in 
each shell and 1 extra chain in each loop, until 7 
shell rounds in all have been made. Fasten off and 
sew to cap. 

The drop ornaments are made as follows: One 
drop is worked at the center of each scallop of the 
fifth shell at each side from the center of the front. 
Catch the thread in the scallop, chain 7, and in the 
second chain from the needle make 6 single crochet, 




No. C100. Crocheted Boudoir Cap. 

then work a second round of 2 single crochet in 
each stitch, keeping the wrong side of the stitches 
out. Make 2 rounds of 1 single crochet in each 
stitch, and 2 rounds of 1 single crochet in every 
second stitch. Chain 7, make a second oval drop 
like that just finished, and fasten off. All the drop 
ornaments are made in the same way. 



HIGH CROCHETED SLIPPERS No. C112. 

Materials: 

2 Balls Color, 1 Ball White and a Small Quan- 
tity of Black "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle 
No. 3. 
1 Bone Crochet Hook No 1. 

Begin with the color, making a chain of 22 
stitches. Turn, skip the chain next to needle, 1 
single crochet in each of the others excepting the 
center stitch, in which make 3 single crochet. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 1, 1 single crochet in each 
stitch, picking up the stitches on the back thread for 
ribbing. 

3rd row: Increase in the center as in second row. 
At the end of the row change to white, drawing a 
loop of the white through the loop of color, and 
letting the end of the latter hang. Make 2 rows 
with white, repeating the second and third rows, 
and continue to repeat the second and third rows 



20 



THE ^BTfiB^ CROCHET BOOK No. 




No. C112. High Crocheted Slippers. 



alternately, making 4 rows with color and 2 rows 
with white, until 37 rows have been made. This is 
correct for a No. 4 or 5 sole. For a different sized 
sole more rows or less may be made, having the 
front long enough to reach to the point where the 
narrowing for the center of the sole begins. 

1st side row: Work along the row to the center, 
and turn. On this row work back and forth. 4 rows 
of color and 2 row-- of white alternately, always in- 
creasing 1 stitch in beginning the second and every 
second row thereafter (these increased stitches are 
put in at the top) until the work is enough to reach 
to the center of the back of the sole. Continue to 
work in the same way for the other side of the 
back, but decrease 1 stitch at the top end instead of 
increasing. When finished join to the other half 
of the last row of the front. 

The turnover top of the slipper is made with 
white, in single crochet, but the stitches are picked 
up on the double thread, to avoid a rib. Chain 3, 
turn, 2 single crochet on the chain. Turn, 1 single 
crochet in the first stitch, 2 single crochet in the 
next. Turn. 2 single crochet in the first stitch, 1 
single crochet in each of the others. Continue in 
this way, always increasing 1 stitch at the same ehd 
of each row, until there are 12 single crochet in 
the row. Then work without increasing until the 
-hotter edge i- long enough to reach around the top 
of the slipper. Make a point for the second end, 
decreasing 1 stitch at the inner end of each row 
until the work reaches a point. Fasten off the white 
thread. With the black begin at one end of the 
edge to be overhauled to the top of the slipper. 
Make 1 single crochet in the edge, chain 1. 1 single 
crochet in edge, spacing the single crochet suffi- 
cientlv to keep the work flat. Continue in this way 
down to the point, around the outer edge of the 



turnover, and around the other point to the inner 
edge. Fasten off, and work a row with white in the 
same way, working the single crochet over the 
chain stitches of the black row and increasing at the 
corners to keep them flat. 

CROCHETED BOOTEES No. C109. 

Materials: 

1 Ball Each, White and Pink or Blue 

"ARTAMO" Crochet Perle No. 5. 

1 Skein "ARTAMO" for French Knots. 

1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

(Work Tightly.) 

Begin with the sole, using the white cotton. 
Make a chain 2J4 inches long, and work 1 row of 
single crochet along the chain. Put 2 extra single 
crochet in the final chain, turn, and work down 
the other side of the chain, making 1 single crochet 
in each stitch and in the final chain make 1 extra 
single crochet, or 3 single crochet in all in that 
stitch, counting the first single crochet made. 
Work round and round in single crochet, always 
picking up the stitches on the double thread: and 
always increasing 3 times at each end of the sole 
in each round. Make 1 extra single crochet be- 
tween the increasings at each end in each round. 
Continue to work in this way until the sole is V/i 
inches wide, and fasten off., 

For the top of the bootee use the colored cotton, 
beginning at the toe. Chain 14, turn, skip the chain 
next to needle, make 1 single crochet each in the 
next 6 chain, 3 single crochet in the next, 1 single 
crochet in each chain to end. On this row work 
back and forth, picking up the stitches on the back 
thread to form a rib, and always increasing at the 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH *=»RTfl_Ko COTTONS 



center of every other row by working 3 single 
crochet in the center stitch, until 21 rows in all 
have been made. At the end of the last row draw 
a loop of the white thread through the colored loop 
on needle, but do not fasten off the colored thread. 
Work 2 rows with white thread, without increas- 
ing at the center, and picking up the stitches on the 
double thread. Draw the colored thread through 
the loop on needle, and fasten off the white. 

Before proceeding with the row as usual, take a 
short length of colored thread, fasten it in the 
fifth stitch before the center of preceding row, 
chain 5, and fasten off. 

Now pick up the work where it was dropped, 
and work with color along the row, making 1 sin- 
gle crochet in each stitch, picked up on the back 
thread for ribbing, until the chain is reached. 
Work 5 single crochet along the chain, and turn. 
On this row work back and forth in ribbed single 
crochet until- the strip is long enough to reach 
around the back of the bootee. Join the last row- 
to the other half of the final white row of the 
front. 

Before beginning the rows for the top band of 
the bootee catch the white thread in the top point 
of the final row of the front, chain 5, and fasten 
off. Begin again at the top of the chain added for 
the first side row and work around the top, making 
1 single crochet in each stitch of the top and 1 
single crochet in each stitch along the added chain. 
At the end of the chain put 2 extra single crochet 
in the final stitch. Turn, skip the first stitch and 
make 1 single crochet in each of the others, picking 
up on the double thread. Fasten off. Crochet the 
top to the sole with single crochet made with the 
white thread, and adorn the white bands with 2 
rows of French knots made in contrasting color, 
either pink or blue. 



The second bootee is made like the first, except- 
ing that the first row is worked along one-half of 
the final row of the front, and the side opening is 
made in joining the last row to the other half of the 
final front row. This makes the bootees opposites. 



BABY BOOTEES No. C119. 

Materials : 

1 Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 30. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 10. 

(O in directions stands for open mesh, made with 

2 chain stitches and 1 d.c.) 
Chain 158, turn, 155 dc. on ch. 

2d row: Ch. 3, 2 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc!, 1-0, 

3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc 
3 dc, 1-0. 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc. 
12 dc, skip 1 st., 12 dc, 1-0. 3 ,1c, 
3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc. 
3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
3 dc, ch. 5 ; turn. 

3d row: 26-0, 6 dc, skipping 1 st. between each 
dc, skip 2 sts, 6 dc, skipping 1 st! between each dc, 
26-0, ch. 3; turn. 

4th row: 1 dc in first open mesh, 1 dc in next 
dc, 1 dc. in next open mesh, 1 dc in next dc. Make 
1 open mesh and 3 dc. alternately 11 times, 6 dc, 
skip 1 st.. 2 dc, skip 1 st, 6 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 
dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 
dc, 1-0. 3 dc. 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 5 
dc, chain 5, and turn. 



1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 
, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 
, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 

1-0, 3 dc. 1-0, 



5th row: 25-0, 1 dc, skip 1 st, 3 dc, skip 1 st, 2 
dc, skip 1 st, 3 dc, skip 1 st, 1 dc. 25-0, chain 3, 
and turn. 




No C109. Crocheted Bootees with French Knots 



22 



CROCHET BOOK No. I 



6th row: 2 dc, 1-0, 3 da, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0. 3 dc, 1-0, 3dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 5 dc, skip 1 st, 
2 dc, skip 1 st., 5 dc.; 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, chain 5, 
and turn. 

7th row: 25-0, 2 dc, skip 1 st.. 2 dc, skip 1 st., 

2 dc, 25-0, chain 3, and turn. 

8th row: 5 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc. 1-0, 3 dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0. 3 dc, 1-0. 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, skip 2 sts., 2 dc, 
skip 2 sts., 2 dc, skip 2 sts.. 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 

3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc. 1-0, 
3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 6 dc, chain 5, and 

turn 



turn 

9th row: 12-0, 1 
in space, 3 dc, 1 dc 



dc, 1 dc in 



space. 3 dc, 1 dc 
dc, 1 dc. in space, 



5 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
chain 2, and turn. 

1 dc in every stitch to end of row. 

1 sc in every stitch around bootee except in 
centre front at top, where 4 dc are made. 

Sole 

Chain 41. 

1st row: 39 sc on chain, 3 sc in last st. of chain, 
turn and go down other side of ch., making 40 sc, 2 
sc, in last of chain. 

2nd to 10th row, inc.: 1 sc. in every st. except at 
toe and heel, there widening sufficiently to allow sole 
to lay flat. 

11th and 12th row: Sc. around toe and heel, 
slip stitching sides in order to shape same. 

13th row: Start to widen toe, fastening thread to 
where slip stich ends, slip stich in every stich except 




No. C119. Baby's Crocheted Bootees Lined with Silk. 



3 dc, 1 dc, in space, 3 dc. 1 dc. in space, skip 1 st. 
1 dc, skip 1 St., 1 dc, skip 1 St., 1 dc, skip 1 St., 1 
dc, skip 1 st., 1 dc. 1 dc, in space, 3 dc, 1 dc, in 
space. 3 dc. 1 dc, in space, 3 dc, 1 dc in space, 3 
dc, 1 dc. in space, 3 dc, 1 dc. in space, 1 dc, 12-0, 
chain 3, and turn. 



10th row: 2 dc. 1-0, 3 dc 


1-0, 3dc, 1-0, 


3 dc, 


1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc. chain 2?. 


and turn. 




11th row: 23 dc. in chain, 


1 dc, 11-0, ch. 


3, and 


turn. 






12th row: 5 dc, 1-0. 3 dc 


1-0, 3 ,1c, 1-0, 


3 dc, 


1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0. 3 ,1c 


, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0 


3 dc, 


1-0, 3 dc, ch. 2, and turn. 







13th row: Dc. in every st. to end of row. 
Join thread to end of 10th row on other side of 
Ch. 3, 2 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 1-0. 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc, 
1-0, 3 dc, 1-0, 3 dc. chain 25, and turn. 
23 dc. on chain, 1 dc, 11,-0, ch. 3, and turn. 



20 stitches across toe, there making sc slip stitch 
down other side to where sole narrows; turn. 

14th row: 1 sc in every stitch of previous row. 
Sew bootee in shape. Line with pink satin ; trim 
with small bow in centre front. 

LADIES' BELT No. C143. 

Materials : 

1 Large Ball White "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle 

No. 3. A Few Yards White Couching Cord. 

1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 2. 

Make a chain of 19, then crochet over the cord 17 
stitches, leaving the two extra for the first turn. 
Work in single crochet, taking both threads of the 
stitch ; at each turn chain 1. Thus continue until you 
have the belt the size you require, being careful in 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH ^SRTflRfe COTTONS 



23 




No. C143. Lady's Crocheted Belt. 



working to keep the cord always on the one side. 
This makes a fight and wrong side. If you fail to 
follow this advice you will not like the belt as well. 
To make the point, decrease 2 stitches at either side 
of the belt. Cut the thread and sew the end out of 
sight on the wrong side of the belt. To make the 
button : Begin with 3 chain and work around the 
disk, increasing so as to have the disk perfectly flat. 
The wrong side of the crochet is the right side of 
the button. Cover the button mould, if it is made of 
wood, with a piece of white muslin. Make the but- 
ton large enough to come just a little over the edge 
of the mould. Then cut a long thread and with this 
thread sew a loop in each stitch of the crochet 
around the disk, and draw these loops tight, so as to 
bring the cover for the button tight. Sew at the 
part where you have begun to decrease the belt. 
Then sew three good-sized snappers along the belt 
on the wrong side. This completes the belt if left 
all white, but if edged with black (as shown) or any 
color, use one small ball "Artamo" Crochet Perle 
Xo. 5, making 3 sc. and 1 deep sc. between the 
rows, and repeat all around. 

Strikingly pretty would be a belt made from the 
above directions, with 2 rows of white and 2 rows 
of color, worked alternately. Green and white, 
lavendar and green, brown and blue, and many 
other combinations would be delightful for a belt to 
be worn with a linen dress. 



CROCHETED MULES No. C146. 

Materials : 

1 Large Ball "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle No. 5, 

Light Green. 

1 Small Ball "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle No. 5. 

Black. 

1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

\y 2 yds. Light Green Ribbon. 

Start — ch. 21. Turn. 

1st row: 10 s.c, 3 s.c. in the 11th St., 10 s.c. 

2nd row: S.c. to end of row. Take up the 
front loop of st. and work a s.c, take up back loop 
of next st. and work s.c. Repeat this st. for all 
work. Ch. 1, turn. 

3rd row: 11 s.c, 3 s.c. in 12th st. 11 s.c, ch. 1. 

4th row: S.c. to end of row. ch. 1. Turn, con- 
tinue widening every other row until you have 30 
ribs or 60 rows. 

61st row: Skip 1 and make s.c to the center. 
Turn. Repeat this last row always decreasing 1 st. 
on one side until 3 sts. are left. Make opposite 
side in the same manner. 

For the black edge s.c. all around. 

2nd row: Ch. 5, 1 d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c, ch. 2. Con- 
tinue around. 

3rd row: Use green. Ch. 2, 6 d.c. in same st. 
Fasten down with 1 s.c. Continue around. 

Finish off with ribbon. 




Mo. CI 46. Crocheted Mules of "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle. 



24 



THE ^gTflK^ CROCHET BOOK No. I 




No. CU.-S. Nightgown Yoke of Filet Crochet with a Sleeve Edging to Match. 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH «^RTflMo COTTONS 



25 




No. C113. Working Pattern for Filet Crochet Nightgown Yoke, Shown on Opposite Page. 



NIGHTGOWN YOKE No. C113. 
Materials : 
2 Balls White "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 80. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 10. 
The nightgown yoke is crocheted on a scale of 
8 meshes to the inch, or for a very large sized night- 
gown a slightly coarser mesh may be used. The 
work is begun at the lower edge of the front, and 
after all the rows to the neck of the front have 
been made, short rows are worked up each side, 
on them increasing at the outer edge and narrowing 
on the inner edge, until the center point of the 




No. C113. Sleeve Edging Used with Filet Crochet Yoke. 



shoulder has been made. After the center point the 
rows are narrowed at the outer edge, and increased 
at the inner edge. When the top row of the back is 
reached, join the sides with a chain long enough for 
the neck edge of the back and on the final side rows 
and chain make the back of the yoke, working from 
the top down. 

The holes of the neck edge of the nightgown yoke 
are filled with single crochet, to give the scalloped 
effect. 

EDGING FOR SLEEVES No. C113. 

Make a chain long enough for the edge of the 
sleeve, allowing a little for working up. Turn, 1 
d.c. in the eighth ch. from needle, * ch. 2, skip 2 
ch. of foundation, 1 d.c. in the next. Repeat from 
* along the ch. 

2nd row: 1 d.c. in each d.c, 2 ch. between. 

3rd row: 1 s.c. in first d.c, * ch. 5, 1 d.c. in next 
d.c, ch 5, 1 slip stitch in next d.c, then slip stitch 
across the top of 2 holes, to the d.c. after the 
second. Repeat from * to the end, and fill the holes 
of both edges with s.c. 



26 



THE <^KTflH^ CROCHET BOOK No. I 



MEDALLIONS FOR BABY'S CAP, No. C158. 

Materials: 

1 Ball White "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 60. 

1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 10. 

Chain 10 and join in a ring, with a slip stitch. 

1st round : Chain 3, 4 d.c. in ring, * chain 2, 5 d.c. 
in ring, and repeat twice from *. After the last 
cluster chain 2 and join to starting chain of the 
round. 

2nd round: Chain 3, 1 d.c. in first space between 
clusters, chain 3, 2 d.c. in same space. * Chain 6, 
and in the next space work 2 d. c, 3 chain, 2 d.c. 
Repeat twice from *, after the last cluster chain 6, 
and join to the starting chain of the round. 

3rd round : Chain 9, turn, skip 4 chain, 1 d.c. in 
each of the others, then 1 s.c. in the center of first 




No. C1S8. Crocheted Medallion. 

shell of preceding round. Chain 9, turn, skip 4 
chain, 1 d.c. in each of the others. Over the 6- 
chain of preceding round now make 2 s.c, chain 5 
and catch to the s.c. last made, for a picot, 3 s.c, 
picotj 3 s.c, picot, 2 s.c. all over the same 6-chain, 
and repeat from the beginning to the end of the 
round. 

4th round: Slip stitch to the top of the first leaf 
of preceding round. * Chain 6, 1 s.c. in top of next 
leaf, chain 7, 2 treble crochet in the center picot in 
preceding round, chain 7, 1 s.c. in top of next leaf, 
and repeat from * around the medallion. 

5th round: In each space of preceding round 
make 1 s.c. and 1 1 d.c. This completes the smaller 
sized medallion. 

For the medallion for the center of the crown 
continue as follows : 

6th round: Chain 7, catch in the center d.c. of 
first scallop, chain 7, catch in the end of same 



scallop. Continue in this way, catching twice in 
each scallop all around. 

7th round: Make 9 s.c. in each chain loop all 
around. 

8th round: Slip stitch to the center of the first 
loop. Chain 8, catch in the fifth chain from the 
needle, for a picot, 1 d.c. in the center s.c. of the 
same loop of preceding round, chain 5 and catch for 
a picot, 1 d.c, picot, 1 d.c. all in same place. Make 
a shell of 4 d.c. and 3 picots in the center stitch of 
each loop around the medallion, join and fasten off. 

CLOVER LEAF PINCUSHION No. C163. 

Materials : 

1 Ball White "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 50. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 8. 

Chain 12, close; chain 7, and crochet 12 treble in 
this ring, putting the thread over the needle 3 times, 
with a chain of 3 between each treble. Slip stitch in 
the fourth chain from the first. Chain 25, and slip 
stitch in the fourth chain from the first ; chain 3, 1 
single crochet in the first hole ; chain 3, and single 
crochet in the next hole ; chain 25, slip stitch in the 
fourth chain from the first ; chain 3, 1 single crochet 
in the same hole ; chain 3, 1 single crochet in the 
next hole ; chain 25, slip stitch in the fourth chain 
from the first ; chain 3, 1 single crochet in the same 
hole. Thus continue, making the 25 in chain, hav- 
ing the 2 single crochet in the hole where you chain 
25, and the chain of 3 between each of the 25 chain 
in the hole of the preceding row, finishing the row 
with the 3 in chain and slip stitching down to finish 
the row. The row that follows really looks as 
though it were four rows. One-half of the trebles 
are crocheted in the chain of 25, the 3 picots, the 
clover, the oblong ring at the left, the 3 picots op- 
posite the first ones made, and then the 15 trebles. 
All this is crocheted in one row. Begin with the 
trebles in the 25 chain (that is the half of the trebles 
are made), 15 trebles in the chain of 25 ; 3 picots, 
with 5 in chain for each picot; chain 17, slip stitch 
in the tenth from the first of chain, 1 single crochet, 
7 trebles, 1 single crochet in this ring; chain 6, slip 
stitch down and crochet the second leaf the same as 
the first, and the third the same as the second ; chain 
23, slip stitch back in the sixth chain stitch from the 
first, 23 single crochet in this oblong ring ; chain 5, 
catch to the chain before the first picot and then 
crochet the picots to correspond to the first made. 
Catch to chain stitches between the first picots 
and make sure they are exactly opposite each other : 
then crochet the 15 trebles to finish the second half 
in the long ring, 1 single crochet in the hole of 3 in 
chain of the preceding row, and proceed to work 
the rest as directed for the first figure. When you 
get all the way around, fasten with a slip stitch, cut 
thread and fasten end out of sight. Make a stitch 
on your needle and put the thread over 3 times, 
and make a double treble in the seventh stitch of 
the oblong ring ; chain 3, 1 s.c. in the 4th stitch of 
the clover ; chain 9, make 1 s.c. in the fourth stitch 
of the next leaf of the clover; chain 9, 1 s.c. in the 
fourth stitch of clover; chain 4, 1 double treble in 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH €[RT5B§» COTTON 



29 




Front of Bag. 

Chain 29 ; turn ; make 2 plain rows of a.st. ; 
the 3rd row of a.st. contains 13 mounds; the 4th is 
a row of plain a.st. ; the 5th contains 12 mounds, 
leaving out the center mound ; the 6th is plain ; the 
7th contains 10, leaving out 3 mounds in the center; 
the 8th row is plain ; the 9th contains 8 mounds, 
etc., etc., until you have 4 mounds, two on each 
side ; then you increase back again, adding 2 
mounds on every other line until you have 12 
mounds ; then crochet 5 alternate rows of 13 
mounds each ; then 2 plain a. rows. 
Back of Bag. 

Make a duplicate of above. 

Then cross stitch the design in the diamond 
shapes in the center. 

Lav the back over the front, joining them across 
the bottom and up the sides by working s.c. through 
both thicknesses. 

Now close up the bottom, by making 3 s.c. and 
p. ; 3 s.c. and p., etc. Don't omit to leave a hole in 
the center. 

Around the top crochet a row of s.c. ; then a row 
of puff stitches. Next make the beading of 1 ch. 
and 1 d.c. alternately, then another row of puff 
stiches. Finish the top like the bottom, with 3 s.c, 
a p.. 3 s.c, a p., etc. 

NEWPORT EDGE FOR TOWEL No. 5446. 

Materials : 

1 Large Ball White "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle 

No. 5. 

1 Small Ball Pale Blue "ARTAMO" Crochet 

Perle No. 5. 

1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

1st row: Ch. 16, 1 dc. in 6th st. from needle, 2 

ch.. 1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc. 2 ch., 1 dc. 

2nd row: Turn ch. 5, 7 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 6 ch. 
Turn, fasten in 1st row. turn, 12 s.c. around ch. 
3rd row: Ch. 5, 7 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc. 



4th row: Turn ch. 5, 1 dc, ch. 2, 1 dc, ch. 2, 
1 dc, ch. 2, 1 dc, ch. 6. Fasten in 2nd row, turn, 
6 sc, ch. 6., fasten in centre of first loop. Turn, 
12 sc. around ch., drop down to loop of previous 
row, 6 s.c. in loop, 4 holes along row. Repeat from 
beginning of first row. 

Finish edge with a row of colored s.c, taking up 
back st. of edge. 

French knot of color in centre of each block. 

"ARTAMO" bath towel Xo. 5446. stamped for 
embroidery, can be had from your dealer. 

BLOCK PATTERN FOR TOWEL No. 5451. 

Materials: 
1 Large Ball "ARTAMO" White Crochet Perle 

No. 5. 

1 Small Ball "ARTAMO" Pink Crochet Perle 

No. 5. 

1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

Edging — Start with 17 ch. 

1st row: Turn 1 d.c in 4th st. from needle, 4 
d.c. in next 4 sts., 2 ch., 1 d.c, 2 ch., 1 d.c, 2 ch., 
1 d.c. 

2nd row: Turn 5 ch., 1 d.c. in d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c, 
ch. 2, 6 d.c. in next 6 sts. 

3rd row: Same as 1st row. 

4th row : Same as 2nd row, ending with 8 ch. 

5th row: Turn, skip 3 ch., 5 d.c. in next 5 sts.. ch. 
2, 1 d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c, ch. 
2. 1 d.c. 

6th row: Turn ch. 5, 1 d.c, ch. 2. 1 d.c, ch. 2, 
1 d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c, ch. 2, 6 d.c. in next 6 sts. 

7th row: Same as 5th row. 

8th row: Same as 6th row. 

9th row: Turn, slip stitch to 6th d.c, ch. 3, 5 d.c 
in next 5 sts., ch. 2, 1 d.c, ch. 2. 1 d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c 

Repeat from the beginning of second row. 

Edge with s.c. in color. 

"ARTAMO" bath towel No. 5451, stamped for 
emb r oiderv, can be had from vour dealer. 



THE <6 STflR e> CROCHET BOOK No. I 



LACE FOR TOWEL No. 5453. 

Materials: 

1 Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 25. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

Chain 22, turn, 1 d.c. in the eighth chain from 
needle, ch. 2, skip 2 chain of foundation, 1 d. c. in 
the next. Repeat 3 times from *, making 5 holes in 
the row. 

2nd row: Turn, ch. 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c. of 
preceding row, 2 d.c. in next d.c, ch. 2, 1 s.c. in 
same stitch, ch. 2, 2 d.c. in same stitch ; 1 d.c. in next 
d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c. in next d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c. on turning 
chain of preceding row. 

3rd row: Chain 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c, ch. 2, 
1 d.c. in next d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c. in s.c. ch. 2, 1 d.c. in 
next d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c. on turning ch. of preceding 
row. 

4th row: Chain 7, 1 d.c. in second d.c, make 4 
holes along the row. 

5th row : Chain 3, 2 d.c. in each hole and 1 d.c. in 
each d.c along the row, then 12 d.c. in the 7-chain 
loop. Catch with a slip stitch in the end of second 
row, and turn. 

6th row: Chain 3, 1 d.c. in first d.c, * ch. 3, skip 
1 d.c, 1 d.c. in the next. Repeat from * until 7 
holes have been made on the 12 d.c, then make 4 
holes over the 4 holes of preceding row. 

7th row: Make 2 holes as usual, and in the next 
d.c work 2 d.c, ch. 2, 1 s.c, ch. 2, 2 d.c. ; 1 d.c. in 
next d.c, ch. 2, skip 1 hole, 2 d.c, chain 5, 2 d.c. 
in each hole to end. There make a slip stitch in the 
end of the starting chain, and turn. 

8th row: In each 5-chain loop make 1 s.c, ch. 2, 
5 d.c, ch. 2, ls.c, 6 scallops in all, omitting the final 
s.c. in the final scallop. Ch. 2, 1 d.c in next d.c, ch. 
2, 1 d.c. in s.c, 3 holes more to end. 

9th row: Make 5 holes, and turn. 

Repeat from the beginning of the second row for 
length required. 

"ARTAMO" guest towel No 5453, stamped on 
linen huckaback, 15 by 24 inches, can be had from 
vour dealer. 



PICOT LACE FOR TOWEL No. 5456. . 

Materials : 

I Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 25. 

1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

Make chain 18 and turn. 

1st row: Make 1 d.c in the Rth stitch of the 
chain. Chain 2. skip 2 stitches of the chain and 
make 1 d.c, repeat till you have 4 meshes and turn. 

2nd row: Chain 7, skip 2 meshes and make 1 

d.c. chain 5. 1 d.c. in next d.c, 1 d.c, chain 5, 1 
d.c. in next d.c. and turn. 



3rd row: Chain 5, 1 d.c. in next chain 5, chain 5, 
1 d.c. in the same place, 1 d.c. in next chain 5, chain 
5, 1 d.c. in the same place and 6 d.c. in next ; turn. 

4th row: Chain 7, 1 d.c. in chain 5, chain 5, 1 
d.c. in the same place, 1 d.c. in next chain 5, chain 
5, make 1 d. c in same place, chain 3 and 2 trebles 
in the next chain 5, chain 2 and 2 trebles in the 
same ring, repeat till you have 5 spaces and 12 
trebles and turn, making one slip stitch to join with 
the first row. 

5th row: Make 3 d.c. in the first space, picot, 
3 d.c. in next space, repeat till you have 7 groups of 
the 3 d.c. and 6 picots that makes the shell of the 
lace. Chain 5, make 1 d.c. in next chain 5, chain 
5, 1 d.c. in the same place, 1 d.c. in next chain 5, 
chain 5, 1 d.c. in the same place, 6 d.c. in chain 7 and 
turn. 

6th row: Chain 7, 1 d.c, chain 5, 1 d.c. in first 
and second 5 chain of preceding row, and turn. Re- 
peat from beginning of 3rd row. 

"ARTAMO" guest towel No. 5456, stamped on 
linen huckaback, 15 by 24 inches, can be had from 
your dealer. 

FAN LACE FOR TOWEL No. 5452. 

Materials : 

1 Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 25. 

1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 6. 

Chain 22, turn, 1 d.c. in the eighth ch. from 
needle, ch. 2, skip 2 stitches of foundation chain, 
1 d.c. in the next, ch. 2, skip 2, 1 d.c in next, ch. 5, 
1 d.c. in same place, ch. 2, skip 2, 1 d.c. in next, ch. 
2, skip 2, 1 d.c. in end of chain. 

2nd row: Turn, ch. 7, 1 d.c. in first d.c, ch. 2, 
1 d.c. in next d.c, 7 d.c. in 5-chain loop, skip 1 d.c, 
1 d.c. in next, 2 holes to end. 

3rd row: Turn, ch. 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c, ch. 2, 
1 d.c. in next d.c, ch. 7, 1 d.c. in d.c. after the shell, 
ch. 2, 1 d.c. in next d.c, and 12 d.c. in the end loop. 

4th row: Turn, ch. 5, 1 d.c. in the third d.c, * ch. 
2, ski]) 1 d.c, 1 d.c. in the next, and repeat from * 
for 6 holes around the d.c. of preceding row, skip- 
ping 2 d.c. in making each of the last 2 holes. Ch. 
2, 1 d.c. in next d.c. ch. 2, 1 d.c. in the center of 
7-chain loop. ch. 5, 1 d.c. in same place, ch. 2, 1 d.c. 
in next d.c, 2 holes to end. 

5th row: 2 holes, 9 d.c. in 5-chain loop, skip 1 
hole, 1 d. c. in the next, ch. 2, skip 1 d.c. and in the 
next hole make 2 d.c, ch. 2, 2 d.c, then make 2 d.c 
in each hole to end, always with 2 ch. between the 
holes. 

6th row: Turn, ch. 7, catch in the fourth ch. from 
the needle, for a picot, * 3 d.c. in next ch. loop, ch. 
4 and catch for a picot, and repeat from * in each 
ch. loop around the fan, making 6 picots in all. Ch. 
2. 1 d.c. in the d.c. before tlie shell, ch. 7, 1 d.c. in 
the d.c. after the shell, 2 holes to end. 

Repeat from the beginning of the first row for 
the required length. 

"ARTAMO" guest towel \'o. 5452, stamped on 
linen huckaback, IS by 24 inches, can be had from 
your dealer. 

(For directions for other towel laces seepage 32) 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH < RTflH g> COTTONS 



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32 



THE ^RTflMo CROCHET BOOK No. 1 



FILET POINT FOR TOWEL No. 5454. 

Materials: 

1 Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 15. 

1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 

1st row: Ch. 20, turn. 

2nd row: 1 dc in 5th st. from needle, 2 ch., 1 
da, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 3 dc, 3 ch., turn. 

3rd row: 5 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc. on dc. of previous 
row, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 5 ch., turn. 

4th row: 1 dc, 2 ch., 9 dc, 3 ch., turn. 

5th row: 11 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 3 ch., turn. 

6th row: 14 dc, 3 ch., turn. 

7th row: 11 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 5 ch., turn. 

8th row: 1 dc, 2 ch., 9 dc, 3 ch., turn. 

9th row: 5 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 
1 dc, 5 ch., turn. 

10th row: 1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 
3 dc, 5 ch., turn. 

11th row: 1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 2 ch., 
1 dc, 2 ch., 1 dc, 5 ch., turn and continue pattern 
until desired length is made. Finish edge with 3 
s.c. and 1 picot. 

"ARTAMO" guest towel No. 5457, stamped on 
linen huckaback 15x24 inches, can be had from 
your dealer. 

EDGE FOR GUEST TOWEL No. 5455. 

Materials: 

1 Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 25. 

1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 6. 

Wide Crochet Tatting. 

1st: Ch. 8, join in first St., sc. 4, ch. 4, sc 4, ch. 

4. sc. 4, ch. 4, sc 4, slip stitch 1, forming one ring. 

2d: 111. 12, fasten in ring in the 4th stitch, then 
sc. 4. ch. 4, sc. 4, sc 4, ch. 4, sc. 4. slip stitch. 

3d: Ch. 12, fasten in the 4th stitch, then sc. 4, 
chain 2, pull loop thru last picot of first ring, chain 
2, sc. 4, chain 4, sc. 4, chain 4, sc. 4, 1 slip stitch. 

Narrow Crochet Tatting. 

Chain S — Ch. 8, join in first stitch sc. 4, ch. 4, sc. 
4. ch. 4, sc. 4. ch. 4, sc. 4. slip stitch 1. forming one 
ring. 

Chain 14, join in the 6th stitch.se. 4, chain 2, pull 
loop thru picot, chain 2, sc. 4. chain 4, sc. 4, chain 4, 
sc. 4, 1 slip stitch. 

"ARTAMO" guest towel Xo. 5455, stamped on 
linen huckaback 15\24 inches, can be had from 
\ our dealer. 

DIAMOND EDGE FOR TOWEL No. 5457. 
Materials: 
1 Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 15. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 5. 
Chain 15, turn. 1 d.e. in the ninth chain from 
needle, chain 3. 1 d.e. in the next stitch of founda- 
tion chain, chain 5, 1 slip stitch in end of chain. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 6, in the space between 
the 2 d.e of preceding row make 4 d.e. 1 chain. 4 
d.e, and 1 d.C. in the third chain after second d.e. of 
preceding row. 

3rd row: Turn, chain 5, in the center of shell 
make 1 (I.e., 3 chain, 1 d.e. Chain 3, 1 d.e in the 



chain after shell, chain 5, skip 3 chain of preceding 
row, 1 d.e in the next. Turn, chain 4, 5 d.e in loop 
last made, 1 d.e in next d.e Turn, chain 3, 1 d.e 
in each d.e, picked up on the double thread. 

4th row : Turn and slip stitch along the d.e last 
made ; chain 3, 1 treble crochet in the same stitch 
where the last d.e of first row of block was made, 
then make a shell and a final d.e as in second row. 

5th row: Chain 5, 1 d.e, 3 chain, 1 d.e in center 
of shell, chain 3, 1 treble crochet in treble crochet, 
chain 5, 1 s.c. in next chain loop, chain 5, 1 s.c. in 
first corner of block, chain 5, 1 s.c. in center of 
block, chain 5, 1 s.c. in next corner of block ; chain 
5, 1 s.c. in same corner, make 2 loops, catching at the 
center and next corner of block, then 2 loops, catch- 
ing in the next 2 chain loops. Make 1 s.c in final 
loop of edge, and turn. 

6th row: Chain 5, 2 s.c. in first loop, and repeat 
in each loop to the treble crochet, making only 1 s.c 
in the final loop. Make a shell and final d.e as in 
second row, then repeat from the beginning of first 
row for required length. 

"ARTAMO" guest towel No. 5454, stamped on 
linen huckaback 15x24 inches, can be had from 
your dealer. 

WIDE CLUNY INSERTION No. C121. 

Chain 26, turn, 1 d.e in the sixth ch. from needle, 
ch. 7, 1 s.c. in the fourth stitch along foundation ch., 
ch. 3, 1 s.c. in the third stitch along foundation, ch. 
3, 1 s.c. in the third stitch along foundation, ch. 13, 
1 s.c. in the fourth stitch along foundation chain, 
turn, in the ch. loop just made work 9 s.c, keeping 



1 ' — - 



No. 0121. Wide Chuiy Insertion. 

them in the first half of the loop, turn, ch. 7, 1 d.e. 
in third stitch from end of foundation chain, ch. 2, 
1 d.e in end of chain. 

2nd row: Ch. 5, 1 d.e in second d.e, 7 s.c. in 
next eh. loop. ch. 3, 7 s.c. in next ch. loop, 1 s.c. in 
3-ch. loop, eh. 3, 1 s.c. in next 3-ch. loop and 7 s.c. 
in next loop, 1 d.e. in next d.e, ch. 2, 1 d.e on turn- 
ing eh. 

3rd row: Turn, ch. 5, 1 d.e in second d.e, ch. 
13, 1 s.c. in 3-ch. loop, turn and make 9 s.c. in loop 
just made, turn, ch. 7. 1 s.c in fifth s.e in next large 
loop, ch. 3, 1 s.c. in 3-ch. loop, ch. 3, 1 s.c. in third 
s.c. in next loop. ch. 7. 1 d.e in next d.e, eh. 2, 1 
d.e on turning eh. 

4th row: Ch. 5, 1 d.e. in second d.e, 7 s.c. in 
next loop and 1 s.e. in 3-ch. loop. eh. 3, 1 s.c. in next 
3-ch. loop, 7 s.c. in next loop, ch. 3, 7 s.e in next 
loo]), 1 d.e in next d.e, ch. 2. 1 d.e on turning ch. 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH ^RTflKo COTTON 



33 



5th row: Ch. 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c, ch. 7, 1 s.c. 
in fifth s.c. in large loop, ch. 3, 1 s.c. in 3-ch. loop, 
ch. 3, 1 s.c. in third s.c. in next large loop, ch. 13, 1 
s.c. in 3-ch. loop, turn. 9 s.c. in loop just made, turn, 
ch. 7, d.c. in next d.c, ch. 2. 1 d.c. on turning ch. 
Repeat from the beginning of the second row for 
length required. 

NARROW CLUNY INSERTION No. C122. 

Chain 22, turn, 1 d.c. in sixth ch. from needle, ch. 
7, 1 s.c. in third stitch along foundation ch.. ch. 3, 
1 s.c. in third stitch along foundation ch., ch. 3, 1 s.c 
in third stitch along foundation ch., ch. 7, 1 d.c. in 
fourth stitch along foundation ch. 2, 1 d.c. in end 
of ch. 



2nd row: Turn, ch. 
in next loop, 1 s.c. in , 



5, 1 
ch. 



I.e. m second (i.e., / s.c. 
oop, ch. 3, 1 s.c. in next 






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No. C122. Narrow Cluuy Insertion. 

3-ch. loop, 7 s.c. in next large loop, 1 d.c. in next 
d.c., ch. 2. 1 d.c. on turning ch. 

3rd row: Ch. 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c, ch. 13, 1 s.c. 
in 3-ch. loop, turn, 9 s.c. in first half of loop just 
made, turn, ch. 7, 1 d.c. in d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c. on turn- 
ing ch. 

4th row: Ch. 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c, 7 s.c. in next 
loop, ch. 3, 7 s.c. in next loop, 1 d.c. in d.c, ch. 2, 1 
d.c. on turning ch. 

5th row: Ch. 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c, ch. 7. 1 s.c. 
in fifth s.c, ch. 3, 1 s.c. in 3-ch. loop. ch. 3, 1 s.c. in 
third s.c. in next loop. ch. 7, 1 d.c. in d.c, ch. 2, 1 
d.c. on turning ch. 

Repeat from the beginning of the second row for 
the required length. 

CLUNY LACE No. C123. 

Chain 23, turn, 1 d.c. in sixth ch. from needle, 
ch. 7. 1 s.c. in fourth ch. along foundation, ch. 3, 1 
s.c. in third stitch along foundation chain, ch. 3, 1 
s.c. in third stitch along foundation chain, ch. 12, 
1 s.c. in final stitch of foundation. 

2nd row: 2 s.c. in loop next to needle, ch. 5 and 
catch in the last s.c. made, for a picot, 10 s.c. in same 
loop, 1 s.c. in 3-ch. loop, ch. 3, 1 s.c. in next 3-ch. 
loop. 7 s.c. in large loop, 1 d.c. in d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c. 
on turning ch. 

3rd row: Ch. ?, 1 d.c. in second d.c. ch. 13, 1 
s.c. in 3-ch. loop. turn. 9 s.c. in loop just made, turn, 
ch. 14. 1 s.c. in eighth s.c. in large loop of preceding 
row. 



4th row: 3 s.c. in loop next to needle, ch. 5 and 
catch for a picot, 1 1 s.c. in same loop : ch. 3, 7 s.c. 
in next loop, 1 d.c. in d.c, ch. 2. 1 d.c. on turning ch. 

5th row: Ch. 5, 1 d.c. in second d.c, ch. 7. 1 s.c. 
in fifth s.c. in loop, ch. 3. 1 s.c. in 3-ch. loop, ch. 
3, 1 s.c. in third s.c. in next loop, ch. 12, 1 s.c. in 
eighth s.c. in same loop. 

Repeat from the beginning of the second row for 
the required length. 



ROUND SCALLOPED EDGE No. C138. 

Chain 29: Turn. 1 double crochet in the eighth 
chain from needle. 1 hole with 4 double crochet 
after it, 1 hole, 4 double crochet, 3 holes to end. 

2nd row: 4 links. 4 double crochet, 3 holes to 
end. 

3rd row: Chain 8, turn and make 1 double 
crochet in first double crochet of preceding row, 
thus increasing 1 hole, 1 hole, 16 double crochet, 2 
holes to end. 

4th row: 1 hole. 4 double crochet, 5 holes, 4 
double crochet, 1 hole. 

5th row: 1 hole. 4 double crochet, 1 hole, 10 
double crochet, 1 hole, 4 double crochet, 1 hole. 

6th row: 2 holes, 4 double crochet, 3 holes, 4 
double crochet, 2 holes. 

7th row: Turn and slip stitch to the second 
double crochet of preceding row, 2 holes, 4 double 




No. C123. Cluny Lace. 

crochet, 1 hole. 4 double crochet. 3 holes. Repeat 
from the beginning of the second row for the length 
required, then fill the holes of the outer edge with 
single crochet, putting 9 single crochet in each of 
the corner holes. 3 single crochet in each of the 
holes between and 2 single crochet at the end of 
each of the shorter rows. 



DAISY LACE No. C137. 

Chain 26: Turn, 1 double crochet in the eighth 
chain from needle ; *chain 2, skip 2, 1 double 
crochet in the next, repeat from * with 4 double 
crochet after the hole, 3 holes to end of chain. 

2nd row: Turn chain 5, 1 double crochet in the 
second double crochet. 2 holes more along the row, 
7 double crochet, 2 holes to end. 

3rd row: Turn, chain 8, 1 double crochet in the 
first double crochet of preceding row, thus increas- 



34 



THE <^RTflR^ CROCHET BOOK No. I 



ing 1 hole ; 1 hole more along the row, 10 double 
crochet, 3 holes to end. 

4th row: 2 holes, 4 double crochet, 5 holes to 
the end of the row. 

5th row: Turn and slip stitch to the second 
double crochet of preceding row ; chain 5, 1 double 
crochet in the next double crochet of preceding row : 
10 double crochet (including that just made), 3 
holes to end. 

6th row: Repeat second row. 

7th row: Turn, chain 8, 1 double crochet in first 
double crochet of preceding row, thus increasing 1 




No. CJ37. Daisy Lace 



i 



L 

P 

I 



ii 3 w5 JRl*i i* c *" ■« r-; - 3 *. 5>: /f - 



No. C138. Kouud Scalloped Edge. 



,-^ ■;•!».'«> -*K.4>i .-•>.-*: ■ *.*§^Li*2S i 












No. C139. Insertion to Match Round Scalloped Edge. 

hole, 3 holes more along the row, with 4 double 
crochet after the last, 3 holes to end. Make 3 rows 
all holes, narrowing 1 hole in beginning the second 
hole row. then repeal from the beginning of the first 
row, for the pattern and for the outer edge, making 
2 rows long and 2 rows short alternately until suf- 
ficient length lias been made. Then work along the 
scalloped edge, putting 9 single crochet in the hole 
at the end of each of the long rows, and 2 single 
crochet each in the hole at the end of each short 
row of the edging. 

This is a pretty lace, if made of coarse cotton, 
for towels and pillow cases. Of fine cotton, it may 
be used to trim underwear and children's clothes. 



INSERTION TO MATCH ROUND SCAL- 
LOPED EDGE, No. C139. 

Chain 32 : Turn, 1 double crochet in the eighth 
chain from needle, then 1 double crochet in each of 
the next 15 chain stitches, 2 holes to end. 

2nd row: 1 hole, 4 double crochet, 5 holes, 4 
double crochet, 1 hole. 

3rd row: 1 hole, 4 double crochet, 1 hole, 10 
double crochet, 1 hole, 4 double crochet, 1 hole. 

4th row: 2 holes, 4 double crochet, 3 holes, 4 
double crochet, 2 holes. 

5th row: 3 holes, 4 double crochet, 1 hole, 4 
double crochet, 3 holes. 

6th row: 4 holes, 4 double crochet. 4 holes. 
Repeat from the beginning of the first row for the 
length required. 

DAISY INSERTION No. C140. 

Chain 32 : Turn, 1 double crochet in the eighth 
chain from needle, *chain 2, skip 2 chain of founda- 
tion, 1 double crochet in the next, and repeat from* 
to the end of the chain, when there should be 9 
holes in the row. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 5, 1 double crochet in sec- 
ond double crochet, make 2 holes more along the 
row, 2 double crochet in the next hole and 1 double 
crochet in the next double crochet, 1 hole, with 4 
double crochet after it, 3 holes to end. 

3rd row: Turn, chain 5, 1 double crochet in the 
second double crochet, 1 hole with 7 double crochet 
after it, 1 hole, 7 double crochet, 2 holes. Each row 
is begun with 5 chain and 1 double crochet in the 
second double crochet of preceding row, to count 
as the first hole. 

4th row: 1 hole, 10 double crochet, 1 hole, 10 
double crochet, 1 hole. 

5th row: 4 holes, 4 double crochet, 4 holes. In 
giving the amount of double crochet in a group, the 
double crochet with which the preceding hole was 
closed always is included in the amount stated. 

Repeat the first 5 rows, then repeat the fourth, 
third, second and first rows ; then make 1 row 
holes, and again repeat the fifth, fourth, third, 
second and first rows. Make another row all holes, 
work 2 rows like the fifth row, make another row 
all holes, and repeat from the beginning for the 
length required. 

POINTED EDGING No. C142. 

Chain 26: Turn, 1 double crochet in the eighth 
chain from needle, 3 holes with 4 double crochet 
after the third, 2 holes to end. 

2nd row : Holes over holes, and double crochet 
over double crochet. 

3rd row: Turn, chain 8, 1 double crochet in first 
double crochet, thus increasing 1 hole, and work 
holes over holes and double crochet over double 
crochet to end. Work 1 row of holes over holes, 
and double crochet over double crochet. 



OF DESIGNS WORKED WITH <^BTflR^> COTTON 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




No. CI 40. Daisy Insertion, Matching Daisy Lace No. C137. 



5th row: Turn, chain 8, 1 double crochet in first 
double crochet of preceding row, 4 holes along row 
with 4 double crochet after the last, 3 holes to end. 

6th row: 4 holes, 4 double crochet, 4 holes to 
end. 

7th row: Turn, chain 8, 1 double crochet in first 
double crochetof preceding row, 3 holes more along 
the row, 4 double crochet, 5 holes to end. 

8th row: 1 hole, 7 double crochet, 3 holes, 4 
double crochet, 3 holes. Make 1 row of holes over 
holes, double crochet over double crochet. 

10th row: 5 holes, 4 double crochet, 4 holes. 

11th row: Slip stitch to the second double 
crochet of preceding row ; chain 5, 1 double crochet 
in next double crochet, 3 holes, 4 double crochet, 4 
holes to end. 

12th row: 3 holes, 4 double crochet, 5 holes. 

13th row:- Slip stitch to the second double 
crochet, chain 5, 1 double crochet in next double 
crochet, 4 holes, 4 double crochet, 2 holes. Work 
holes over holes and double crochet over double 
crochet for 5 rows, then repeat from the beginning 
of the third row for the length required. Fill the 
holes of the outer edge with single crochet. 

INSERTION TO MATCH POINTED 
EDGING, No. C141. 
Chain 29: Turn, 1 double crochet in the eighth 



chain from needle, 1 double crochet each in the next 
3 chain stitch, 4 holes with 4 double crochet after 
the last, 1 hole at end. 

2nd row: 2 holes, 4 double crochet, 2 holes. 4 
double crochet, 2 holes. Work holes over holes and 
double crochet over double crochet for 7 rows, 
then repeat the first row. 

11th row: 3 holes, 7 double crochet, 3 holes. Re- 
peat 11th row, then repeat from the beginning of 
the first row for the length required. 

LINGERIE CORDS. 

Materials: 
1 Ball "ARTAMO" Cordonnet No. 30. 
1 Steel Crochet Hook No. 10. 
1st row: Ch. 4. Turn. 

2nd row: Draw a loop through each st. of ch. 
leaving loops on hook. 

3rd row: Thread over hook and draw through 
1st st. Thread over, draw through two st. Thread 
over, draw through two sts. 

4th row: Pick up each of three sts., draw a loop 
through, leaving each on needle. When all are 
picked up repeat 3rd row for desired length. 

To make ends : Ch. 12 sc. around ch., turn and 
finish sc. with Picot edge. 







No 



. C141. Insertion to Match the Pointed Edging, Shown Below. 




No. CI 42. Pointed Edging, to be Used with the Insertion Above. 



SOOK. No. I 




No. 3262. Combing Jacket of Turkish Toweling. 

EDGE FOR COMBING JACKET No. 3262. 
Materials: 
1 Ball "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle No. 5. 
1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

Combing jacket No. 3262 is made both of pink 
and blue Turkish toweling and is embroidered in a 
French-knot design with "ARTAMO" Four-Ply. 
The stamped jacket can be had of your dealer. The 
edges arc finished with a tiny hem, then with crochet 
worked as follows: Make 1 d.c. in the edge, work- 
ing over the hem. * Ch. 2 and make another d.c. in 
the edge, spacing it far enough away from the first 
d.c. to keep the work flat. Repeat from * around 
the edtrc. 



2nd round: 1 s.c. in first d.c, ch. 2, 1 d.c. in next 
d.c, * ch. 5 and catch in last d.c. made, repeat twice 
from *. ch. 2 and repeat from beginning to end of 
round. Join and fasten off. 

GROUCH BAG No. C133. 

Materials: 

1 Large Ball Ecru "ARTAMO" Crochet Perle 

No. 5. 

1 Bone Crochet Hook No. 1. 

1st row: Ch. 45, turn. 

2nd row: S.c. in each st., turn. 

3rd row: Ch. 1, 1 s.c, taking up back of St., 
1 s.c in next St., taking up front of St., continue to 
end of row. 

Make 69 rows. 

Double over to desired size and finish off with a 
shell of 4 d.c, making 2 s.c between the shells. 

If desired the grouch bag may be lined with 
flannel or silk, making it even more practical for 
the purpose for which it is intended — that of carry- 
ing extra money or jewels when traveling. 

MILE-A-MINUTE PICOT LACE No. C152. 

Chain 10, 1 double crochet in the eighth chain 
from needle, chain 6, catch with a slip stitch in 
the end of starting chain. 

2nd row: Turn, chain 1, 2 double crochet in 
chain loop next to needle, chain 5 and catch in the 
last double crochet made, for a picot, 4 double 




No. C133. Grouch Bag. 

crochet in same loop. Chain 2, 1 double crochet in 
double crochet of preceding row, chain 2, 1 double 
crochet in turning chain of preceding row. 

3rd row: Turn, chain 5, 1 double crochet in 
second double crochet of preceding row, chain 6, 
catch with a slip stitch in second double crochet of 
shell of preceding row. Repeat the second and 
third rows alternatelv for length desired. 




Crocheted Edge Used on Combing Jacket No. 3262. 



No. C152. Mile-a-Minute Picot Lace. 



LOOK FOR 

THIS 

TRADE -MARK 







IT IS A 

GUARANTEE 

OF QUALITY 



^RTflKc EMBROIDERY FLOSS is made of best 

Sea Island Cotton, in a long twist, like silk, in a full line 

of FAST COLORS, in two sizes, called "FINE" and 

"COARSE." 

•^gTSR^ FLOCHE is made especially for White 

Embroidery. It is very smooth, even, lustrous, and in all 

sizes from 6 to 30. You will find it fully equal to the 

best imported. 

■gT RTAR ^ HARD TWIST (white only) is made in 

six sizes— A, B, C, D, E, F — F is finest. 

^ RTflg ^' LOOSE TWIST in three sizes-], 2. 3. 

White only. 3 is finest. 




<^gT3K^ FOUR-PLY, four fine strands loosely 
twisted together, may be easily divided. Is made, in 
white and colors. 

^ RT7TR ^> PADDING FLOSS is a l2-stranded,loose- 
twisted white cotton used as a filling in raised em- 
broidery. 

ALL "ARTAMO" SKEIN COTTON, TWO SKEINS 
FOR FIVE CENTS. 

< 9 5TflR ^ BALL FLOSS, four-strand, black or white- 
in balls. 10 cents per ball. 

€BTSB^> CROCHET PERLE is a superior article 
for Crochet, in white and fast colors, in sizes 3 and 5, 
which may be had in small balls at 10c; large balls at 25c. 

<^EfSK^ CORDONNET-A six-cord Crochet cable 
cord of great smoothness and perfect 
twist, for all kinds of Crochet work and 
Lace making- in sizes 3, 5, 10. 15, 20. 30. 
40. 50, 60. 70. 80, 100. All sizes, 10c. per 
ball, white or ecru. 

^ETSH^ PACKAGES of Articles to 
Embroider, contain various novelties 
stamped on good material with "ARTAMO" 
Cottons to complete the embroidery, in- 
struction sheets, etc., from 25c. to $1.00 
each. 

^fBTflR^s PRODUCTS can be had in 

the best Needlework 
Departments— everywhere. 

Your dealer has it in stock, 
or will procure the exact 

*=iRTflHc> item y° u 

want. 

The ^STAB^ Circular 
illustrates and describes 
over 80 Novelties and 
Practical Articles that come 
put up in Package form. 
Sent free on request if you 
de " 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 083 543 2 ♦ 



Metal Edge, Inc. 2006 RA.T 



